Ukrainian Fashion Leaders Describe the View From Kyiv – WWD
Despite Russian troops at the border of Ukraine and heightened diplomatic tensions, six Ukrainian fashion designers are carrying on with their work as best they can.
Through a grant from the U.S. Agency for International Development’s Competitive Economy Program, their collections will be shown starting Monday. The amount of the grants was not disclosed. At least 50 buyers are expected to check out the brands at the Archetype showroom at 676 Broadway through Feb. 25, according to global fashion brand strategist Jen Sidary.
The collections that will be featured are 91Lab, Chereshnivska, Elena Burenina, Frolov, Kachorovska and Paskal. Participants’ applications included line sheets, selections and export capabilities, among other requirements. The founders have been in business between seven and 30 years. This is the second consecutive season that Ukrainian designers have had a showcase in New York through a USAID grant, but there are two more this time.
Reached in Kyiv Friday, Frolov founder and creative director Ivan Frolov said of the situation in Ukraine: “To tell the truth, people continue with their day-to-day routines. There is no panic. But everybody is ready for everything. We have prepared all of our documents and warm clothes. We are ready for everything but we are leading our regular lives. We work every day. We go to parties. Everything is normal.”
As for what the leading concerns are, Frolov said, “The main thing is we don’t know. In some ways, I think it’s more difficult when you know [laughing lightly]. When you just know everything [that could happen], it’s much worse. [With] Russia and Putin, we feel this pressure every day but our main idea is to do what we can do.”
While people are of course constantly talking about the political tensions, Frolov said that Ukrainian people have a very good sense of humor. “We believe in our government and the ability to solve this problem in a diplomatic way. Ukrainian people are much more European-minded than other countries from the former Soviet Union,” he said. “We hope that Europe and the U.S. will help solve this conflict and protect us.”
As for whether Frolov would be prepared to flee by car, foot or public transportation, he said, “If something happened, I would just be prepared for what we need to do — so [if] we will need to protect our families, our buildings, our mothers, brothers and each other, we will protect our city and we will stay here. We don’t want to move from Kyiv or Ukraine. We love our country. If something happens, we just will need to find a safer place, like under our buildings. We will need to protect our city.”
Having had his business since 2015, Frolov said the New York project helps to keep a sense of normalcy and move the company forward. Frolov recently started working with AllBright Fashion Library in Los Angeles. However, the reality of the Ukraine-Russia crisis is of course a very difficult situation, he said, “We are trying to find something positive because all eyes are on us. The whole world is focused on the Ukraine. We just need to show that we are strong and that even in this difficult situation, we can save our businesses, develop them and make them better for our customers from all over the world.”
Specializing in glamorous designs like evening gowns, the designer said it has been interesting that despite the ongoing difficulties, people in Ukraine are continuing to order them for birthdays, parties and special events. “In business, we don’t feel like something is happening [politically]. In Kyiv, the biggest department store is Tsum. In February, sales have been so high that everything for our brand sold out,” he said. “The main thing now is that we our work and do it very professionally to make our economy stronger.”
In New York for the showcase, Ukraine Fashion’s brand marketing and creative director Alina Bayramova reinforced Frolov’s view that people are going about their lives and are being typically friendly and caring. “I’m one of those people. You’re worried of course, and you want to take precautions. People have made some arrangements. Most of my friends have for whatever happens,” she said. “At the same time, you have your everyday life. But there’s no panic — no panic. People are just very together — very strong, calm and friendly at the same time. That’s what’s so remarkable about it. There are all these alerts, concerns and worries. But in general, there is a strong sense of togetherness and readiness.”
Sidary spent a good stretch of time in Ukraine during the pandemic. Family and friends thought her decision to buy a one-way ticket to Kyiv in November 2020 was “insane,” but the Los Angeleno loved the country, its people and creative industry. With friends already living there, she immersed herself in Ukraine’s fashion industry and traveled back and forth between the U.S. until her last visit mid-December last year. Referring to that last visit, she said, “I think Americans were a bit more afraid of the border crisis. Ukrainians are more used to the conflict. It wasn’t clearly as bad as what is happening now. Designers are kind of used to this with what happened in 2014 [referring to the Ukrainian Revolution when Putin annexed Crimea]. They’re used to their neighbor, Putin, being the way that he is. They’re still moving forward, being resilient and creating products.”
Shipping has not been an issue, according to Sedary, who noted the designers’ collections arrived slightly early to New York. The brands have distribution beyond Ukraine, including Europe and the UAE, but have not yet broken into the U.S. market. While some buyers have no problem continuing to look at the Ukrainian fashion brands despite the political uncertainty, Sedary expects that others might be more hesitant. “To me, the way to win here is to continue to support this country and its economy.”
