Johnny Depp at Dinner With Dior, and More from Cannes – WWD
DIOR AND DEPP: Johnny Depp was the man of the hour — several, in fact — as guests at the Dior dinner anticipated the star’s arrival.
Depp, the star of the opening night film “Jeanne du Barry,” had been late to his own press conference earlier in the day, and kept the pace with a past-11 p.m. arrival at the JW Marriott rooftop’s Club Albane for the dinner.
Depp, whose return to Cannes is being hailed as a comeback after his years of legal woes, will be staying on at Dior for another stint as the Sauvage spokesperson. The brand has continued to support him throughout.
“They’ve never pushed me to be someone else when shooting campaigns — it’s authentic, real, an inclusion of my own style and I value that immensely,” he told WWD. The desert-themed campaigns have always had a rock ‘n’ roll edge.
“A unique balance between edge and elegance,” added Depp of the Sauvage campaigns’ style. The actor was sporting a pinstriped suit and hat. “I made this myself,” he joked of his tailored look, before coming clean. “No, not really.”
Juror Paul Dano arrived in a sleek black tux, but wouldn’t — or couldn’t — take questions. “I don’t think I can,” he said.
The jurors might be mum all week, as jury president Ruben Östlund opened the festival with a joke from the stage that there would be no “long conversations” with the public until after the festival. Dano kept it short and sweet.
Karlie Kloss arrived earlier in the afternoon, and hinted that she was prepping for a major red carpet. She promised an epic look, and didn’t disappoint, wearing a gold Grecian gown by Dior at the premiere of “Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny.” — RHONDA RICHFORD
CHOPARD COUTURE: After dressing the necks of the most famous women in its jewels, Chopard is launching a couture line of gowns, minis and jumpsuits ready for the red carpet.
Chopard copresident and artistic director Caroline Scheufele is the mastermind behind the line, which will consist of 50 looks. The company will stage a runway show during the Cannes Film Festival.
Dubbed “Caroline’s Couture,” the collection is designed in silhouettes that are meant to complement jewelry.
Scheufele spearheaded the development of the collection, working with a team of couturiers, and pieces are meant to coordinate and work together over time.
“I wanted to create a collection for women who, like me, want to dress in a way that is fully aligned with who they are today,” said Scheufele. “Women in love with beauty — meaning true beauty, the kind that never goes out of fashion. Pure elegance. Clothes that can be cherished over time, worn in a variety of circumstances and in countless ways, without ever losing their value or relevance.”
Scheufele said that she used the principles of jewelry — collectible, meant to last a lifetime and passed on to the next generation — as inspiration for her couture launch.
“A wardrobe like a jewelry collection, which time makes more and more precious because they are accompanied by slices of life and carry with them experiences, memories and memorable moments. It is this approach to jewelry that I wanted to transpose to clothing.”
The collection was also designed with sustainability in mind. Scheufele went for classic shapes that will last more than one season, and the staple pieces will be available on order for more than one season.
As part of the house’s social and environmental commitments, the line is embroidered at the Kalhath Institute in India, a nonprofit educational center dedicated to the preservation of craft of hand embroidery.
“The Kalhath Institute works to strengthen the skills of the artisans, to pass on this exceptional expertise within India and to put in place framework conditions enabling the craftspeople to earn fair wages — and these are exactly the kind of steps we have been taking for several years at Chopard,” said Scheufele about working with the institute.
The company says it is taking a stance against the concept of fast fashion with this collection, which is an issue at the luxury level as well.
“While the very principles of the fashion industry require the production of clothes systemically doomed to programmed obsolescence, due to the rhythm of the collections presented four to 10 times a year by the fashion houses, Caroline Scheufele adopts the same technique as for jewelry,” the company said in a statement.
Fabrics were sourced form Swiss manufacturer Jakob Schlaepfer, particularly chiffon, taffeta, duchess satin, silks and lace. Jacquards were sourced from Italian supplier Gentili Mosconi. Beading was sourced from Japan, and applied in the Indian workshops.
The premiere collection will make its debut on Tuesday in Cannes. — R.R.
NEW DEAL: Riccardo Tisci has signed with United Talent Agency.
“UTA is thrilled to partner with Tisci as he continues to shape the creative industry with his unique vision and artistry,” notes the global talent agency, based in Beverly Hills.
The Italian fashion designer, known for his gothic creations, has had a career spanning more than two decades. He first made waves as creative director for French house Givenchy in 2005, designing for both women’s and men’s. He went on to succeed Christopher Bailey at Burberry in 2018; his tenure at the British brand lasted through September 2022, with Daniel Lee taking over the role.
Among his endeavors, Tisci has frequently collaborated with Nike. He’s designed sneakers for the American sportswear company throughout his career.
Everywhere he’s gone, Tisci has brought star power with him. He has collected a long list of celebrity fans through the years — Hollywood stars, athletes, artists and musicians, from Marina Abramović to Madonna.
In December, Tisci unveiled a design under his namesake label — a custom gown worn by Ghanaian-British actor-filmmaker Michaela Coel to the London premiere of “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever.” It marked the first time in 17 years that he had shown a design under the brand.
Tisci studied in Italy at the Design Istituto d’Arte Applicata in Cantù, then graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins in 1999.
Founded in 1991, UTA represents artists and professionals across the entertainment industry. The agency’s roster includes Chris Pratt, Timothée Chalamet, Kevin Hart, Bad Bunny and Lizzo. — RYMA CHIKHOUNE
PERFORMING IN PUMA: Olivia Amato has become well-known for the one-shoulder sports bras she leads classes in for her devoted followers on Peloton.
So it’s not surprising that Puma included that style of sports bra as part of the first apparel collection it created for Amato.
Although the instructor has been an ambassador for the brand since late 2021, this is her first signature collection.
The Puma x Olivia Amato collection, which is designed to be worn at the gym or on the street, includes a varsity jacket, an oversize vintage-inspired bomber with contrasting sleeves, a cropped running top and running tight — and of course, sports bras — which are emblazoned with her initials as well as Puma’s well-known jumping cougar logo.
“Creating my first collection with Puma was an incredible experience and a dream come true,” said Amato. “We wanted to combine the elements of elevated performance wear with street style so that you could wear any of the pieces from a workout to your day-to-day.”
Amato, who has more than 400,000 followers on Instagram, joins fellow Peloton instructor Alex Toussaint, whose Game Speed Ahead collection of training and streetwear launched last month.
The Puma x Olivia Amato collection will retail for $40 to $85 and will be available on the Puma website as well as at its New York City flagship beginning Monday.
This is not Amato’s only tie to fashion. The instructor and influencer is married to Daniel Waldron, cofounder of the men’s bespoke suit company Alexander Nash. — JEAN E. PALMIERI
CLUB MODA: To kick off the summer season, Moda Operandi is releasing its latest Club Moda capsule of warm-weather ready-to-wear, swimwear and accessories from a range of 24 established and emerging designers on Friday.
Coming off of the brand’s November 2022 party-minded holiday capsule, Club Moda Summer was designed to exude the idea of “New England prep with a fashion twist,” through 70 exclusive styles, the company said. For the capsule, the Moda Operandi team worked closely with each brand to design into the aesthetic and deliver wardrobing that caters to summer activities such as garden parties, evening clam bakes, beach days and pickle-ball and tennis outings.
“It’s our job as merchants to select designers in a way that all of the final pieces will stand out on their own, while also complementing one another when viewing the capsule as a whole,” Moda Operandi chief merchandising officer April Hennig told WWD.
The range, priced $140 to $2,995, includes exclusive looks from Carolina Herrera, Brandon Maxwell, Jil Sander, Tove, Rosie Assoulin, Sergio Hudson, High Sport, House of Aama, Staud, Éterne, Siedrés, Yaitte, The Frankie Shop and more. Club Moda Summer introduces “new-to-Moda” brands HommeGirls and Recreational Habits; an additional assortment of curated, nonexclusive beauty and home goods will also be featured within the edit.
Citing key pieces, Hennig noted Brandon Maxwell’s cabana striped shirtdress as “a take on classic preppy stripes for evening, pulling inspiration from the colorful sails and cabanas of Nantucket, a favorite summer destination of the designer”; High Sport’s aran beach sweater as “a work of knit artistry, perfect for throwing over a cotton dress as the sun sets,” and Sergio Hudson’s pleated skirt suit as “an elevated and cheeky nod to court sports, with a ’90s vibe that feels perfect for the moment.”
In addition, Moda Operandi is debuting exclusive, limited-edition merch for the capsule’s social media launch. The gifting package, which includes pickleball rackets (in collaboration with Recess), hats, beach towels and sweatshirts, was sent to a group of 100 designers, celebrities, influencers and taste-makers and will be available to shop, in limited quantities, on the brand’s website.
“Following our Club Moda event in November where our venue was swathed in neon smiley faces on everything from hand sanitizer to bandaids to the bartender’s T-shirts, everyone was asking if they could purchase pieces featuring the logo, brilliantly designed by our creative director, Daniel Koch, and team.…At first glance, it appears to be a traditional logo, but on a closer look, those classic elements have been replaced with a cheeky margarita glass and waves,” Hennig said.
To accompany the digital shopping launch, Moda Operandi tapped photographer Blair Getz Mezibov to photograph the editorial campaign and director of photography Ricardo Fernandes to capture the accompanying video. Both works feature The l’On Club in Mount Pleasand, South Carolina, as Club Moda Summer’s backdrop. — EMILY MERCER
SUN & CELINE: Luxury French brand Celine is taking up space on the ground floor at Harrods for its summer Plein Soleil capsule collection until June 14, with a wide window exhibition display and an in-store pop-up.
The collection is inspired by the French Riviera and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, both places dear to the brand’s creative director Hedi Slimane.
“Celine is synonymous with understated elegance, and we are honored to host the brand for their inaugural London pop-up, a rare and sought-after experience by Hedi Slimane,” said Josie Gardner, head of accessories at Harrods.
The pop-up will be followed by the launch of Celine’s Haute Parfumerie in the Harrods beauty hall later this year.
The capsule features Celine monogrammed deck chairs, hammock, wooden fans and a small racket set with a harness.
Slimane staged the brand’s spring 2023 show in Saint-Tropez, which was revealed online in November, more than six weeks after the conclusion of Paris Fashion Week.
The designer settled in Ramatuelle, in the gulf of Saint-Tropez, when he arrived at Celine in 2018.
Slimane has previously shot films for his collections in Nice and Monaco, part of the French Riviera trifecta.
Last year, Harrods was back in the black for the year ending Jan. 29, according to figures released on Companies House. The luxury retail department store reported a profit of 41.7 million pounds after tax, compared to the 57.3 million pound loss in the prior year due to COVID-19 and Brexit.
Sales surged by 35.5 percent to 581.9 million pounds despite the store being closed for 10 weeks between January and April 2021. However, the ease of lockdown returned Harrod’s core customers and international visitors, especially from the Middle East.
The company’s transactional revenue in the period was 1.56 billion pounds, up 42.6 percent compared to the previous period’s 1.09 billion pounds.
The London store made a pretax profit of 51 million pounds after losing 68 million pounds a year earlier; simultaneously the store has lost more than 400 workers, bringing it to a total of 3,511 employees.
“2021 saw the business begin an encouraging recovery despite the continued, although moderating, impact of the pandemic. Our performance was greatly impacted by our Knightsbridge store being closed for 10 weeks during the third lockdown, international travel remaining subdued, and the suspension of the VAT Retail Export Scheme,” said Tim Parker, chief financial officer at Harrods.
“We also continued to invest in our physical and digital offering during the pandemic, showcasing our confidence in the outlook for the business. Trade performance toward the end of the year was particularly encouraging, highlighting the strength of our long-standing customer and brand relationships as well as the continued resilience of the luxury market,” he added. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
BIG OPPORTUNITY: Celine Lefebvre will be joining Yoox Net-a-porter as general manager for the Middle East starting Tuesday.
She’s the founder of the consultancy firm Nomad Lux, which offers global strategy and business development in retail, luxury, beauty and fashion sectors in Australia, New Zealand and internationally.
Her clients include Korean cosmetic brands Cosrx, Banila Co, Clio, Medi-Peel, Neogen, D’Alba, as well as Aesop.
“The Middle East is a dynamic, high-growth region, and there is a great opportunity for us to continue to evolve and refine our service and product offer to a local clientele. We are excited to welcome Celine to the business,” said Alison Loehnis, ad interim chief executive officer of Yoox Net-a-porter.
“She is an accomplished leader and, with her wealth of international experience and deep understanding of the luxury customer, she is well placed to drive forward our business strategy and ambitious growth plans,” she added.
Lefebvre will be responsible for optimizing customer experience, deepening localization and honing curated services and product offers for local customers.
During Net-a-porter’s fall 2023 seasonal trends presentation in London, market director Libby Page laid bare the retailer’s priorities.
Page said the team at Net has “one main objective: engage our EICs. These extremely important customers — VIPs if you prefer — are our highest spending customers. They are loyal, and they love fashion. And while they only make up 3 percent of our customer base, they account for over 40 percent of our sales.”
“We plan to keep growing by making sure that these customers invest more in their wardrobe, and by making sure any new customers we draw in make really considered purchases. EICs are also set to be the most robust consumer group over the coming years. Making sure we keep them excited and satisfied with every aspect of our brand has never been more important,” Page added. — H.M.