Jacquemus on the Beach, Sweeney Fronts Tory’s Ads, Loewe Weaves a Tale – WWD

BEACHY KEEN: Arguably fashion’s most adroit outdoor showman, Simon Porte Jacquemus will head to a special location near the seaside in Arles, France, for a runway display on June 27.

The collection, titled “Le Papier,” will be available for purchase immediately after the show on the Jacquemus e-store, according to the house.

Clothes and accessories for men and women will be paraded, and some items from his upcoming collaboration with Nike will be unveiled there.

Jacquemus deems his collections season-less, but the delivery corresponds roughly with the fall 2022 fashion season.

The designer prefers to stage fashion shows outside the traditional fashion calendar, and in unexpected natural settings such as a crop of wheat, a rolling field of lavender or a gobsmacking tropical beach.

His last collection, dubbed “Le Splash,” saw barefoot models treading a blue boardwalk winding across the idyllic beach of Moli’i Garden in Hawaii.

Known for his sunny designs, Provençal aesthetic and deft grasp of social media, Jacquemus has been teasing his upcoming collaboration with Nike for his 4.6 million followers on Instagram, where the Arles show will be streamed live.

Prepping for the next stage of growth for his 13-year-old brand, Jacquemus recently brought on Paco Rabanne executive Bastien Daguzan as chief executive officer.

The company employs around 100 people at its headquarters in Paris and logistics center in Cavaillon in the South of France. ⁠— MILES SOCHA

SWEENEY ON THE ROAD: Sydney Sweeney appears in Tory Burch’s new digital advertising campaign for the brand’s signature Miller sandals.

As reported, the 24-year-old actress was tapped in April as Burch’s ambassador for the brand’s handbags and shoes.  

In the new campaign entitled “Show Me Your Millers,” Sweeney wears the brand’s cult-favorite Miller sandals. First designed in the early Aughts, the Miller sandals are shown on Sweeney as she hits the road in a baby-blue vintage convertible. The actor and producer packed the trunk (and her T Monogram tool belt), with Millers in every style, from the original sandal in topstitched vachetta leather ($228) to the new Miller Soft with a cushioned sole ($248). While Sweeney changes the tire, she slips into new outfits and Miller sandals.

Sweeney is shown wearing the Millers — in classic black and ivory, clementine, cherry and metallic gold — with cut-off shorts, bra tops and matching knit sets. The campaign, which breaks Thursday, will appear globally on Burch’s owned channels (website, email and social), and the video will run in select Tory Burch store windows.

The campaign was directed by Charlotte Wales and styled by Mel Ottenberg. It was filmed in the deserts of Los Angeles and features the 1982 Missing Persons song, “Walking in L.A.”

“The Millers are our most loved summer sandals, and I was thrilled to work on this free-spired video with Sydney. The campaign highlights all of the reasons people live in their Millers: They’re timeless, super comfortable and make a bold statement,” said Tory Burch,  executive chairman and chief creative officer of Tory Burch LLC.

 

The “Euphoria” actress previously appeared in Burch’s holiday campaign for its Good Luck trainer collection, which was created with Dazed Media, as reported.

Sweeney appeared in the recent season of “Euphoria,” and got her start in shows like “The Handmaid’s Tale” and “Sharp Objects.” She also had a role in last year’s HBO show, “The White Lotus.”

In April, Sweeney was also tapped by skin care brand Laneige for its first U.S. celebrity partnership. In May, Sweeney appeared in Miu Miu’s first ad campaign dedicated to a statement bag, the Miu Wander. Last year she was the face of Guess, appearing in an ad campaign that paid homage to the late Anna Nicole Smith. ⁠— LISA LOCKWOOD

A WEAVE IN TIME: For its sixth project at Milan’s Salone del Mobile, Loewe and creative director Jonathan Anderson will continue to delve into craft, focusing this time on traditional weaving techniques.

Highlighted throughout “Weave, Restore, Renew” is the idea that repairing is central to being sustainable while bringing uniqueness and extra character, an approach that “sits right at the crossing of respect for the environment and respect for the product,” according to Anderson.

“Across this whole project, we celebrate the regenerative power of handwork. I am proud we have created a series of items that rewire the relation with time, wear and tear, delivering a message of evolution and transformation which is progressive and uplifting,” he continued.

Visitors to the international furniture and interior design trade show will be able to see leather, straw and paper turned into striking functional items.

For “Repaired in Spain,” the Spanish fashion house tasked artisans Idoia Cuesta, Belén Martínez, Santiago Besteiro, Juan Manuel Marcilla with breathing new life into 240 distressed baskets by mending them with leather strips.

Elsewhere, straw was the main material of the “Coroza” series of bags and baskets with distinctive fringing that nods to the ancestral technique of that name from the northwestern Spanish region of Galicia traditionally used to make raincoats, hats and baskets from pliable natural fibers.

In addition to these, 2019 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize finalist Young Soon Lee used recycled newspapers woven using the traditional Korean technique called Jiseung for a series of totes.

Shoppers in Milan will have first dibs on a selection of repaired baskets and small accessories starting Monday at the Loewe flagship on Via Monte Napoleone, with some also available on the brand’s e-commerce, before they become available in other cities including Tokyo, Seoul, New York and Paris.

The Salone del Mobile, which takes place from Tuesday to June 12 at the Fiera Milano exhibition center on the city’s outskirts, is celebrating this year its 60th edition and will be focusing on sustainability, a hot topic not only in fashion but also in design, its president Maria Porro told WWD earlier this year. ⁠— LILY TEMPLETON

MOLLY’S MOMENT: Christie’s will highlight works by fashion designer Molly Goddard in the upcoming “The Art of Literature Exhibition.”

Running from Monday to June 15, the exhibition at Christie’s King Street will showcase a selection of artworks inspired by literature through the ages, from categories including 19th-, 20th- and 21st-century art, Islamic art, books and manuscripts, Old Masters and decorative arts. They will be presented alongside looks from Goddard’s fall 2019 collection, which was inspired by Thomas Hardy’s novel “Tess of the d’Urbervilles.”

The British fashion designer said these tulle looks were about being frivolous and fabulous but also strong, tough and resilient — not just surviving but thriving.

“Hardy paints an incredible picture of the English landscape and seasons in ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles.’ The collection was definitely about being wrapped up against the weather physically and metaphorically. The pieces included in the exhibition are a very good representation of what we do best, by which I mean taking simple designs and turning them into something totally different, using techniques like shirring and hand-smocking, or by scaling them up and using unexpected fabrics,” she said.

Annabelle Scholar, co-curator of the exhibition, said: “In this cross-category exhibition spanning thee Millennia, we’re looking at how the written word has inspired artists and creatives to make works of art or bring new meaning to existing works of art. We are thrilled to include these wondrous creations by Molly, pieces which were inspired by a work of literature and ushered in a new era of British fashion.” ⁠— TIANWEI ZHANG

TOP OF THE CROP: Christelle Kocher is adding another feather to her substantial cap — guest creative director of the Tranoï trade show’s September edition.

“Tranoï and Koché hold a common, deep-seated vision and commitment to fashion. We’re united by our values of openness in fashion and our dedication to promoting young designers from around the world,” said the trade show’s chief executive officer Boris Provost in a statement revealing her participation.

In addition to picking the 130 labels that will be present at its Palais Brongniart location for the spring 2023 edition running from Sept. 29 to Oct. 2, Kocher will choose a selection of her favorites shown in a dedicated space. A live masterclass is slated on Sept. 29, where she will explore the new challenges of fashion.

“I think everyone should get a chance in fashion, no matter what their background is. Tranoï’s work helping young designers and independent labels can give them the opportunity to become truly worldwide brands,” stated the designer, who is founder and creative director of Koché as well as artistic director of the Chanel-owned feather and flower-maker Lemarié. She was also tasked with reviving French shoemaker Charles Jourdan earlier this year.

Kocher explained that “throwing open fashion’s doors and windows” had been the goal at Koché, which held its first shows as happenings in public spaces like the Chatelet-Les Halles transport hub or a passage rife with local shops in a popular neighborhood.

This is the first time that Tranoï has invited a designer to be its creative director since it was launched in 1991 as a showcase for independent contemporary labels and emerging designers with a focus on craftsmanship and strong identity.

For the trade show, this is a further step in their aim to promote these newer signatures from around the world, continued Provost. It was among the first to return to a physical format in June 2021, with a showcase dedicated to emerging designers as part of a now-ongoing partnership with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

Tranoï’s next event is set for June 23 to 26 during the upcoming men’s fashion week, where it will showcase around 40 menswear labels. ⁠— L.T.