Hailey Bieber’s Birthday, the Ultimate Jewelry Guide, Depop Celebrates – WWD

BIEBER’S BIRTHDAY: “It’s my Rhode birthday,” Hailey Bieber said with a laugh.

The beauty founder and model toasted her 26th early on Tuesday night, both a celebration of the upcoming day and launch date of the brand’s Vanilla Cake Peptide Lip Treatment: Nov. 22.

“It’s the birthday cake order that I’m always going for,” she said of the new flavor.

“People have been so amazing and such loyal customers,” she went on. “I really wanted something that felt new and fresh to be able to come sooner than later.”

What’s next?

“We’re focused on our essentials,” she said. She’s looking to complete her range of products for an everyday routine, create an SPF and add color to the line down the road.

In the Vanilla Cake campaign, Bieber is seen with flushed cheeks, her lips plump and skin glowing.

“I wanted it to have this sweetness, this yumminess to the imagery that was going to make you feel like the whole thing overarchingly feels delicious,” she said, adding that she enjoys bringing a vision to life. “The creative stuff for me is my favorite part.”

Bieber gathered her friends — the likes of Emma Chamberlain, Camila Morrone, Lori Harvey, twins Simi and Haze Khadra, Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, with North in tow — and a few faces from the Los Angeles, California, beauty community for a dinner party at Nobu in Malibu, California, to mark the occasion. The multicourse meal, featuring the hot spot’s signature dishes (paired with lots of lychee martinis), finished off with a vanilla-on-vanilla birthday cake and the crowd singing “Happy Birthday.”

“Every year that I’ve gotten older, I’ve loved it more,” Bieber said. “And I know a lot of people who are older than me have expressed that, you know, ‘as you get older, you’re going to love it more, and you’ll love your 30s even more than your 20s.’ I hear that all the time. I just feel very excited and optimistic about my future. And I feel like, I love the space that I’m in in my personal life. I love the space that I’m in in my relationship. I love the space that I’m in with my brand.…You can’t hold on to your 20s forever, and I’m happy to continue growing every single year. And I look forward to what’s going to happen with the brand and with my life, my personal life. I feel very, very content with the place that I’m in right now.” — RYMA CHIKHOUNE

STARTER TOME: The jewelry enthusiast looking to deepen their knowledge will need to look no further than the “Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium” volume published at Assouline in December.

Written by veteran French editor Fabienne Reybaud, formerly head of the jewelry and watches department of French newspaper Le Figaro for a quarter of a century, this 324-page book covers a wide range of topics for those wanting to get a head start on the world of gemstones and the designs that magnify them.

Reybaud, who wrote a similar guide for watch enthusiasts 15 years ago, said the effervescence of the jewelry market today called for “a global overview on the market” at a time where books are either “mono-brand and ordered by the houses, or generic coffee tables about the most beautiful pieces.”

Opening with a brief history of jewelry as “small precious items [that] have mirrored the human journey” since the dawn of recorded history, the book starts with memorable examples in history and now-shuttered houses whose influence cast a long shadow in contemporary jewelry design such as Boivin, Fouquet and Jean Després.   

Then it’s all about stones, before diving into an A-to-Z of 46 brands, industry heavyweights and independents alike, making their mark today in a global market worth 20 billion euros. Among these are the likes of Boucheron, Cartier and Chanel but also JAR, Messika, Lorenz Bäumer or Maison Auclert, who creates contemporary items set with antique Roman stones or Greek coins. Reybaud also name checks a handful of emerging signatures like Charlotte Chesnais or Emmanuel Tarpin.

Those who made the cut were selected based on “work well executed,” she said, as “people forget is that it is a truly technical field, where France has historically had deep know-how in high jewelry.”

“Jewelry is too often likened to an accessory. What we mustn’t forget is that unlike shoes or bags, it’s a product that is eternal by design, due to its materials, metal and stones. That’s the original characteristic [of jewels], regardless of affective or symbolic value,” she continued.

Further chapters look at important museum collections, offer insider advice on appraisals and how to start a collection at auctions as well as a glossary.

A surprising element is the prices, peppered throughout. This was particularly important to Reybaud, who felt that giving a reference point would allow clients to understand what they’re looking at. Brands likewise “should not be ashamed of putting their prices in the open,” she added.

The book includes some 250 visuals, from the modish portrait of ’60s top model Penelope Tree holding the 90.38 carats “Briolette of India“ diamond in front of her eye on the cover, to hundreds of pieces and famous faces like Elizabeth Taylor, Zendaya or Julia Roberts.

It is dedicated to Reybaud’s father, a third-generation jeweler in the South of France who once turned down a suggestion from Pablo Picasso to help him launch jewelry.

Published in English and French by Assouline, “Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium” will be available starting December for $95, 95 Euros or 70 British pounds. — LILY TEMPLETON

VINTAGE CELEBRATION: In recent months, some of the hottest new looks in Hollywood have been old, from the vintage plunge-front Jean-Louis Scherrer dress that TikTok star Addison Rae wore to the LACMA gala (her archival streak has been going strong at other events, too), to Bella Hadid’s Tom Ford-era white Gucci gown at the Cannes Film Festival.

As further evidence of the skyrocketing value of pre-owned fashion, vintage dealer Doris Raymond’s sale at Julien’s Auctions this week exceeded expectations with a Chanel Couture gown selling for $68,750, 22 times the original estimate.

No wonder the resale wars are heating up.

In brick-and-mortar, Richard Wainwright, creator of the popular vintage fair A Current Affair, just opened Arcade, a permanent co-op space at The Row in downtown Los Angeles. Fashionphile is popping up at Fred Segal. And eBay just opened a store in New York’s Diamond District that lets customers sell and shop on the spot.

Online, Resee just forged an exclusive partnership with Alaïa on the high end, and GoodwillFinds.com just launched on the lower end of the market, expected to reach $80 billion in sales by 2026.

The pre-loved trend has turned Hollywood stylists into archival fashion curators, including Mimi Cuttrell, who was just tapped by Gen Z-loved online resale marketplace Depop as an ambassador.

The stylist, who works with Gigi Hadid, Maude Apatow and Ariana Grande, hosted a holiday dinner for the reseller on Thursday night at Horses in Hollywood, where she was wearing a Jean Paul Gaultier striped tube dress and a pair of Louis Vuitton logo slides she found on Depop.

“It’s a combination of recycling and standing out,” she said of the appeal of vintage among celebrities now, sharing on her phone her ways for navigating the huge inventory, including following favorite sellers (some of whom were at the celebratory event), and designers, then browsing from high to low prices.

“There are so many special pieces.…Gaultier, Dior, everyone knows who works for me I have racks and racks of Depop and my clients have been loving vintage, too. It’s fun to reuse clothing, not be so wasteful and to find really special finds,” she said.

Peer-to-peer e-com company Depop was founded in 2011 and is based in London. Harry Styles’ stylist Harry Lambert is also a brand ambassador for the site, which was acquired by Etsy Inc. last year in a $1.62 billion deal. — BOOTH MOORE

A VUITTON TREE: Louis Vuitton is decking the halls of South Coast Plaza ahead of the holiday season.

The French luxury brand has unveiled a special tree for the Costa Mesa, California, shopping center’s Jewel Court.

The 40-foot tree is stacked with LV branded boxed gifts in the shapes of toys, including surfboards, airplanes, dinosaurs and bikes, in keeping with the “cadeaux” theme. It’s the first time Louis Vuitton has created a holiday tree for a luxury shopping destination.

Also in the spirit of seasonal decorating, Louis Vuitton has collaborated with Lego on festive scenes for its holiday windows and store displays around the world through Jan. 1.

The first LV boutique in South Coast Plaza opened in 1986, and the brand has been steadily increasing its square footage ever since. In 2000, it opened the current space, tripling the original size to 7,000 square feet total. The shop was designed by Peter Marino, who also designed the Louis Vuitton locations in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood and Paris’ Place Vendôme.

In late August, the brand opened a second store at the shopping center, a dedicated men’s store. For the holidays, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Tiffany & Co. will also debut an Andy Warhol-inspired ornament installation.

In other South Coast Plaza news, the wing that debuted in 1967 is undergoing a transformation with the opening of the new Gentle Monster store, announced boutiques for Missoni, Alexander Wang, Byredo and an expanded Rimowa store. Plans for the redevelopment of the old Sears building and adjacent property are also coming soon. At the other end of the shopping center, Reformation and Anine Bing are opening, alongside new locations for Coach, Weekend MaxMara, Hugo Boss and John Varvatos. In the luxury wing, Hermes opened an expanded, redesigned store in March.

The Segerstrom family-owned South Coast Plaza has been celebrating its 55th anniversary. In October, it continued its history of nurturing the arts with a gala opening of the Orange County Museum of Art’s new Thom Mayne-designed building. It was the cornerstone of the vision of a Segerstrom Center for the Arts, encompassing performance and visual arts, which was spearheaded by the late retail pioneer and philanthropist Henry Segerstrom. — BOOTH MOORE

LANDING IN MILAN: There’s a new pop-up in town.

Acchitto, the Italian jewelry and eyewear brand, has opened the doors to its first pop-up in Milan’s buzzy department store, Rinascente. Open until Jan. 16, the space is part of Rinascente’s “Xmas jewel market.”

Acchitto was founded in 2018 by Roman-based designers Francesca Richiardi and Elena Faccio and it is sold on the brand’s website, in the physical stores of Gente in Rome, Concept 45 in Serbia, Poison Drop in Russia and United Arab Emirates, Curve in Los Angeles as well as through Yoox.

At the pop-up, customers will be able to browse from a selection of the brand’s iconic jewels including the “Cor Ring,” the brand’s bestseller, the “Aequor Onde” earrings and the “Desi” and “Corecini” rings.

This is the first time Acchitto is landing in Milan, and is part of the brand’s planned expansion throughout 2023. Next year the designers, Richiardi and Faccio, will launch their first high jewelry line.

In April, WWD reported that Acchitto was launching a collection of sunglasses and belts for the summer 2022 season. In an interview, the designers told WWD that in 2021, “Acchitto has grown exponentially, more than we could have ever estimated and expected.” — ALICE MONORCHIO

HEADING EAST: Outerknown, founded by Kelly Slater and John Moore in 2015, has expanded to the East Coast. 

The Culver City, California-based brand now has a footprint in New York City and Boston. The cities are two of Outerknown’s largest markets outside of California, according to the company, which aims to open 25 stores by 2025. Future locations will vary, from big cities to smaller and midsize towns, the brand notes in a statement. 

Both at about 1,300 square feet, the New York City shop is located at 135 Prince Street, while the Boston store is at 131 Newbury Street. 

Outerknown first opened shop in El Segundo, California.

Offering casual, everyday wear for men and women — with sustainability in mind — Outerknown introduced a kids’ line earlier this week.

Retail expansion was always in the pipeline for “brand awareness and customer acquisition,” Outerknown chief executive officer Mark Walker told WWD last year after opening its Malibu location.

“We’re going into retail — not just with Malibu but overall — because we want to get the brand out there, and we think one of the best ways to get the brand out there is to create these physical locations that people can go in and touch and feel and engage one-on-one with the brand,” he added. “And then, we do think that our stores are more customer experience centers, where it’s not just buying clothes, but it’s doing events, connecting with a local community.” — RYMA CHIKHOUNE